wifi controlled christmas lights with esp8266

by:ILED     2020-01-07
Have you ever been driven by a house with fancy Christmas lights that often syncs with music?
Typically, these settings require hundreds of dollars of commercial lighting controllers, and Commercial animation software can also be quite expensive, which is a literal money pit for ordinary homeowners.
This structure shows you how to build low
Cost, WiFi light controller using esp8266.
This controller animates a range of cheap lights on Amazon, eBay and many other online stores.
Create an animation using the free xLights program.
What about the best part?
Your lights are connected to your home wireless network so you can put your lights anywhere in your home or yard, control and animate from the comfort of your computer!
The wonderful thing is that once you add more lights to your home, you create multiple controllers and xLights let them work together as \"shows.
You can use a little homemade building to make the wonderful animated lights that all professionals use!
XLights and all the programs in this manual are free (no cost).
This construct will build a light controller that can animate a single string of 150 lights (
Controller supports up to 680 lights).
This string of lights can be hung on a tree or pushed into the bulb of \"coro (
White plastic similar to cardboard)pre-
Made the shape of stars, candy bars and so on.
You can put the lights into the tubes of the glowing arches, attach them to the stripes, make virtual trees, and so on.
You will be surprised how easy it is to have the best Christmas (
And other holidays)
Lights in the block!
You can also visit my websiteitwinkle.
More information on building computerized Christmas lights. UPDATE 5-8-
2019: This site offers a similar kit: Although you may need a larger diameter PVC pipe to install it.
The following instructions do not apply to this kit, but it is a good choice.
Let\'s start. . .
Here\'s what you need to build a computerized animated light using ESP 8266: ESP 8266 ESP-
01 WiFi wireless transceiver module with 1mb flash memory this is the core of the optical controller.
It connects to your home wifi network and drives animated string of lights.
When buying this module, there are some cheap production modules that will cause you trouble.
Away from modules that use PUYA memory chips.
If you want a guaranteed, high-quality module, buy your ESP from Addicore. com here.
\"Pixel pop-up\" board this is the bare board plugged in by ESP and your lights.
It supplies power to ESP and your lights and allows you to program ESP from your computer.
Click here for a full description of what Pops can do.
To buy a motherboard, create an account on it and send a private message to \"ukewarrior\" because he often has a motherboard in stock and is cheap!
If ukewarrior is not on the board, you can order them in groups of 3 from OSHPark.
You need to buy some components and Weld to this board, listed here: Low Voltage difference regulator 3. 3V 0. 8A Positive (Mouser 511-LD1117V33)
Linear voltage regulator 0.
1A Pos Reg (Mouser 512-LM78L05ACZ)(
Note: This component is required only when 12v pixels are used.
Please do not install this component if your lighting controller will use 5v pixels).
MLCC-multi-layer Ceramic Capacitors-
Lead 50 volts 0. 1uF 20% X7R (Mouser 80-C320C104M5R)MOSFET N-Chnl 60V (Mouser 522-ZVN3306A)
Resistance of metal film-
Through hole 1/8 W 330 Ohm 1% 10ppm (qty: 2)(Mouser 71-RN55D3300FTR)Diode -
100V Io/200 mA large-capacity general power switch (Mouser 512-1N4148)
Turn off the tactile switch SPST(ON)
Round button (Mouser 506-FSM4JH)
Title and wire case for 8 p str sr bdmnt skt 3. 5MM TAIL/8. 5MMBODY (Mouser 517-9602086303AR)
Title and wire case 6p Title Gold 15u single line (Mouser 571-5-146280-6)
5P 3 pluggable terminal blocks.
Fixed level 81mm term blk (Mouser 649-220327-D051B01LF)
Aluminum electrolytic capacitors-
Radial lead 220UF 6.
3v dissolved radial alum (Mouser 667-ECA-0JM221)
USB program for CP2102 USB 2.
The 0 to TTL module connects ESP to the USB port of the computer, allowing ESP to be programmed as a light controller.
CP2102 is actually connected to the pixel Pop board and ESP is connected to the pixel Pop.
You can find the USB Programmer here.
The controller will be installed in a 1 \"thin-walled PVC pipe to make it weatherproof and small in size.
Make sure you buy thin.
PVC of regular thickness may not allow ESP antennas to send/receive strong wireless signals.
Also buy two PVC caps for both sides of the pipe.
Connectors you will need a variety of waterproof connectors outside the tube and regular connectors inside the tube.
Here\'s what you need: 3-
LED connectors, outdoor, round, 18 ad hoc working groups (
Two plugs, two plugs)(
Be sure to select \"3pin big\" for the size \")2-
LED connectors, outdoor, round, 18 ad hoc working groups (
Three male, three female connectors)2-
Pin jst led connector
Two plugs, two plugs)3-
Pin jst led connector
One plug, one plug connector)
The power ESP lamp controller is designed for outdoor use and is wind-proof and rain-proof (
Precautions: not waterproof;
Can not be submerged).
What you need is a power supply with a rated power of 67.
This is an outdoor power supply that can drive 150 12-volt lights.
The Ethernet cable requires two long enough cables from the controller to the lamp.
One cable will power and data for the first 100 light, and the second cable will power the next 50 lights other than the first 100 light.
Please ensure that the Ethernet cable has a low ad hoc working group (
I recommend 23)
This way the wires are thick and can carry a considerable amount of power at a minimum voltage drop.
3 sets/string of 12V WS2811 lights (
50 bulbs per group)
These are digital lights that are animated through industry standard protocols called ws2811.
Once programmed, Your ESP will know the protocol as well.
These lights have many shapes and sizes.
As long as they support ws2811 or ws2812, they will work with your project.
Make sure the lights are running on 12 v dc and The Wire thickness is 20 gw or less.
This ensures that the lights can be placed far away from the controller. Buy them here.
Note: this structure supports a string of 150 lights (
3 String connection-to-
End to form a long string).
ESP supports up to 14, 50-
Bulb string per lamp controller (
A long string of up to 680 bulbs).
If you want to use more than 150 lamps, you need to calculate the power supply size and wire size of the number of lamps you intend to use.
Longer wire operation requires a larger instrument cable to take into account the voltage drop in the wire.
\"Coro\" plastic shape you can arrange your strings or lights in any way you want (
Hang them on a tree and so on. ).
A popular way is to push them into plastic cardboard
Shape like this: buy shape here.
This wire will be used to give you a power supply of 120 VAC.
Any outdoor rated extension cord is suitable for this item.
This is a great rope for a Dollar Tree.
This device will definitely come.
It comes in handy when you build a wireless light controller!
The Pixel Pops circuit board is the \"carrier\" of the ESP wifi module \".
The board supplies power to the ESP module and the first series of lights.
You can also connect the USB programmer to the circuit board to upload the optical control software (a. k. a \"firmware)
Turn it into a light controller.
The board is very small, so use a magnifying glass to help weld the assembly to the board.
The circuit board is also clear about where the components are going.
The steps below will guide you through soldering the components on the board. Diode -
Universal, power supply, switch 100V Io/200 mA bulk this looks like a resistor but there is a black mark on one end.
Weld this to the top of the board in the D1 position.
Make sure that the black band on the diode faces the left (
Towards the \"D1\" text on the board).
Please note the diode symbol shown on the board.
Title and wire case for 8 p str sr bdmnt skt 3. 5MM TAIL/8.
This 8-5 mmbodypin block (
Two rows of four needles)
Welded under the diode.
After welding, use a magnifying glass to ensure that the pins do not touch the miscellaneous welding spots from the bottom of the plate.
6P head gold 15u single rowThis six-
The pin line is located vertically below the \"ESPixel Pops\" tab.
Turn off the tactile switch SPST(ON)
When the switch/Button is installed on the board, the switch is shaped like a rectangle.
The direction is correct as long as all four pins go through the hole.
Resistance of metal film-
Through hole 1/8 W 330 Ohm 1% 10ppm (qty: 2)
Solder the two resistors to the space marked as R1 and R2 on the board.
As long as the resistance is mounted horizontally on the board, their direction does not matter.
Aluminum electrolytic capacitors-
Radial lead 220UF 6.
3v alum dissolved radioactivity weld the blue cylindrical capacitor into the space marked as C2 on the plate.
Positioning is very important;
Make sure \"-
\"One side of the capacitor faces the left side (toward the 6-pin header).
MLCC-multi-layer Ceramic Capacitors-
Lead 50 volts 0.
1uF 20% x7r solder the yellow, somewhat flat capacitor into the space marked as C1 on the board.
The orientation of this capacitor is not important.
Low voltage difference voltage regulator 3. 3V 0.
This regulator is large and has a metal label with a hole on it.
Solder the space marked as U1 on the board.
Positioning is very important;
The metal sheet should face the bottom of the plate (
Towards \"vcc gnd\" text).
Before welding, put the regulator as close as possible to the circuit board, because the top of the metal label may scratch the inside of the plastic PVC pipe, making it difficult for the circuit board to be inserted/removed from the tube.
It is also a good idea to bend the metal label at a certain angle so that it can be inserted into the plastic pipe more easily.
Linear voltage regulator 0.
1A Pos Volt RegThis regulator is much smaller than the one on it, a bit cylindrical and flat on the side.
Positioning is very important;
Place the regulator on the board and the plane faces the bottom of the board (
Towards \"vcc gnd\" text).
Please pay attention to the flat part of the white element profile on the board.
Weld the assembly to the space marked IC1 on the board.
Note: This component is required only when 12v pixels are used.
Please do not install this component if your lighting controller will use 5v pixels). MOSFET N-
The Chnl 60VThis component is smaller and thinner than the regulator above.
If you look closely at it, the component has a flat edge and a diagonal edge on the other side.
Positioning is very important;
Place the assembly on the board and the plane faces the bottom of the board (
Towards \"vcc gnd\" text).
The text on this Assembly should face the top of the board.
Weld the assembly to the space marked as Q1 on the board.
5P 3 pluggable terminal blocks.
81mm term blk fixed HORIZONTALThis green part is welded to the bottom of the board (
Right above the text \"vcc gnd).
The hole inserted into the wire should face the bottom of the plate.
A picture of the finished Board will appear in this step.
Compare your work with the picture, especially the order in which the two regulators and MOSFET are in the correct position and direction.
When you have finished welding all the components, it is very important to check the bottom of the board using a magnifying glass!
Make sure that all welding points are independent so that stray welding points do not come into contact with nearby welding points, which can lead to a short circuit.
Your light controller is small enough to fit in a 1 \"PVC tube.
Each end of the tube has a lid;
One end is used to \"input\" the power from the power supply and the other end is used to connect your string of lights.
Please note that the case is waterproof but not.
It can withstand the bad weather. snow/rain)
But it cannot be submerged in the water.
Cut with thin PVC pipe
Wall PVC pipe, cut 6. 5\" long.
This is actually longer than needed, but the extra length will be handy if you need to add a longer antenna to the ESP module. The built-
The antenna works fine if you have a strong wifi network, but it may need to be increased if you need a better range.
Drill the end with two PVC caps, drill a 1/4 hole on one cap, and drill two 1/4 holes on the other cap.
The first cover is for the \"power input\" connector and the second cover is for the \"string\" connector and the \"Power Injector\" connector (
These will be explained in detail in the next steps. That\'s it!
Your fence is built.
Your WiFi light controller accepts a 12v DC power supply to power the controller and your string of lights.
Establish a 12v DC power connection connect a 12v DC power supply to the circuit board Note: There may be a problem with the wires that are not kept connected to the green header block.
If this happens, you can curl the wire to such a \"curl pin terminal \".
You can also see this type of connector in the attached picture.
You have now completed the power input wiring of the board!
In the above steps, the power cord to the circuit board supplies power to the ESP module and the first series of lights (50 bulbs).
To power the second and third strings, we need to create a \"Power Injector\" cable that goes around the circuit board and powers these strings directly from the input power cord.
In this way, the circuit board will not be overloaded because of excessive current.
Easy wiring of this power injector cableup.
Here\'s how to do this: make the power syringe cable. The instructions are designed to support three 50-
String end-to-end connection.
The beginning of this \"long\" string will be connected to your light controller.
The circuit board of the lamp controller can power the first two strings.
But in order to power the third string, we need to power the string, also known as \"power injection \".
There will be two connectors at one end of the optical controller tube.
The first connector supplies power for the first two series lights, while the second connector supplies power for the third series lights.
The first connector also provides a data feed for strings, telling all three strings how to animate them.
Here\'s how to connect it: assemble the string connector onto the board Note: There may be a problem with the wire not staying connected to the green header block.
If this happens, you can curl the wire to such a \"curl pin terminal \".
You can also see this type of connector in the attached picture.
The next step is to connect the connector and connect the string from outside the tube to the tube.
The last step is to add an outdoor circular connector to the first string of lights.
This is necessary because the connector that comes with the string may not be completely waterproof.
Add a waterproof connector to the first string of lights. Your lights should have JST connectors on both ends.
You need to cut off the connector on the \"input\" side of the rope and weld it in the round waterproof connector.
Find which end of the light string is the \"input\" end and which end is the \"output\" end.
Normally, there is a parent JST connector at the input, but double
Confirm it.
To do this, take a closer look at the first bulb at both ends of the string.
Each bulb has the \"input\" side and the \"output\" side.
The input side is marked with \"12 V\", \"DI\" and \"GND\", while the output side is not marked with these terms.
A magnifying glass may help!
The first bulb in the string is where the wire enters the \"input\" side of the bulb.
At the other end of the string, the wire comes from the \"output\" side of the last bulb. Make sense?
The last step is to connect the remaining strings and then provide the \"fresh\" ability for the third string.
Add the connector to the third string of lights for power injection note: The third string of lights may be away from the light controller tube, so the Power Injector connector you make on it will not be reachable.
Simply make a two
Wire extension cable with male 2-
One end is the outdoor connector and the other end is the parent connector.
Most likely, your lights will be placed far away from the Wifi controller.
To do this, you need to build two extension lines.
An extended cable will provide power and data for the first 100 lamps.
The second cable will power more than 100 of the Lights (
We are using 150 lights in this project)
Therefore, the second cable will power the last 50 lights in the long string.
The ws2811 light you purchased uses three wires: power, ground, and data.
But you can\'t use any three simply.
The first wire and cable to extend the cable.
This is because the data line can receive interference from the power supply and ground in the same cable.
To solve this problem, please use a dedicated wired Ethernet cable for your extension cable.
Note: I don\'t recommend more than 50-
The extension line using this method is 60 feet.
Also, make sure that the Ethernet cable uses 23 KW or thicker wires.
How to build the first extension cable how to build the second extension cable here is a picture showing the complete wiring of the Power and Light column cables.
Note: to prevent the waterproof connector from pulling out from the PVC cap, connect the zipper from the inside of the cap to the end of each waterproof cable.
This way, when the connector is pulled out from the outside, the cable will stop pulling out once the zipper is tied to the cover.
Add a plug to your power supply. The cable you finished should look like the attached picture.
Add the connector to the 12VDC wire of the power supply. Your power supply should look like the attached picture.
Note: If you plan to connect the 12v power supply to the lamp controller to test the light, be sure to disconnect the CP2102 USB Programmer first.
If the USB Programmer is connected while operating the 12v power supply, it will immediately turn off the USB Programmer and may also turn off the ESP module.
There will be smoke.
When you purchase the ESP module, it will arrive without a program.
We need to upload a program and turn it into a WiFi light controller.
The ESP module is not connected to a computer for programming.
However, the board has a connector.
We can plug the ESP module into the board and then plug a special USB programmer device into the board.
The board acts as a conduit between the USB programmer device and the ESP module.
Here\'s how to connect programming in English for Specific Purposes.
Connect the ESP module to the board. Connect the programmer to the board. Next, we will prepare for your computer to recognize USB Programmer devices.
Do not plug in the USB programmer device until the appropriate steps below indicate!
Next, we need to install the upload software to send the light controller program from your computer to the ESP module.
Flashing the firmware to the ESP module: after flashing the firmware, it is best to disconnect the USB programmer from the computer and the light controller, and then power the light controller with a separate power supply.
If you keep the USB Programmer connected, there will be a time controller that will not start properly and will not be able to connect to the wireless network.
Note: If the serial output does not show an IP address, the optical controller can still successfully connect to the wifi network.
On the router\'s configuration web page, click the option to display the connected device via DHCP.
Your light controller may appear as \"ESP\" in the list with a number at the back.
If you see the light controller in the list, write-
Write down the IP address assigned to it.
Note: If the controller is not connected to the wifi network, verify that the SSID and password are correct.
Unplug the USB Programmer, press and hold the button and plug it into the computer, and release the button after five seconds.
Then try uploading the firmware again.
Note: If you plan to connect the 12v power supply to the lamp controller to test the light, be sure to disconnect the CP2102 USB Programmer first.
If a USB Programmer is connected to a red circuit board while operating a 12v power supply, it will immediately turn off the USB Programmer and possibly the ESP module.
There will be smoke.
Your light controller not only controls the lights;
Its function is web server!
You can \"View\" and configure the controller by opening a special website on your computer.
Here\'s how to do this: configure the controller for one of your string of lights your wifi controller doesn\'t know how many lights are connected to it.
Here is how to configure.
Note: Please perform the following steps when you go home, not in the workshop! Fine-
When your controller starts up for the first time, it will contact your wifi router to get the IP address.
The router provides a random address for each device on the wireless network.
Your computer/laptop also has an IP address.
When you connect your computer/laptop to a wireless network or plug in an Ethernet cable in your router, the router provides an IP address.
Any device such as home network, computer, laptop, smartphone, smart TV, etc.
Provide IP address from router.
It is very likely that the router would otherwise provide the IP address of the optical controller to another device on the home network.
This is because your router does not know that the IP address of your optical controller should be kept.
If your router provides the same IP address to another device, neither device will be able to communicate on the home network.
The easiest way to solve this problem is to limit the IP address range that the router provides to other devices.
For example, if your router is configured to provide IP addresses between 192. 168. 1. 2 and 192. 168. 1. 254 (
Note that the last number in the first example changes from \"2\" to \"254\" in the second example \")
, You can change this range in the router configuration.
If the IP address of your optical controller is 192. 168. 1.
For example, 250 can set the IP address range of the router to a maximum of 192. 168. 1. 239.
In this way, the 250 address will not be provided to another device on the network.
Configure the router to limit the scope of the dhcp ip address to change the router settings: when programming the ESP module during the class, configure the ESP controller to use a static IP address, it is assigned a temporary IP address from the DHCP server in the class workshop.
When you first power the controller at home, your home router assigns a different temporary IP address to the controller.
But the problem is, we don\'t know what the new IP address is!
We need to determine what address is assigned and then assign a \"static\" IP address to the controller.
To view the router IP address assigned to the wireless device: configure the ESP controller to use a static IP address. Note: If you cannot access the wireless controller after clicking [Save changes]
The controller may need to be restarted manually above.
Just disconnect the power and turn it on again.
The configuration web page for your wifi controller allows you to test the lights to see if the strings are connected correctly.
If you test the lights quickly, you don\'t need to use the xLights animation program.
Note: If you plan to connect the 12v power supply to the lamp controller to test the light, be sure to disconnect the CP2102 USB programmer from the red circuit board first.
If the USB Programmer is connected while operating the 12v power supply, it will immediately turn off the USB Programmer and may also turn off the ESP module.
There will be smoke.
If your light is not on
Up, please refer to the trouble shooting section at the end of this manual.
We have completed the hardware and software preparation work on the board and the ESP module.
You build the hardware, connect the lights to the hardware, and upload the firmware to the ESP module.
From the ESP web interface, the light loops through the base color, which means that the light is properly connected to the board, the ESP module is connected to the wifi network, and the firmware is working fine.
When you successfully \"ping\" the IP address of the ESP module from your home computer/laptop, this means that ESP is successfully communicating with the wifi network.
We have done it so far and congratulate you!
The final step is to install the animation software on your computer/laptop and control your lights from there.
This is where it gets interesting!
XLights is a free open source program that enables you to design, create, and play amazing lighting displays by using a DMX controller, just like the one you just built.
With it, you can visually lay out your monitor and then assign effects to various items throughout the animation.
When your controller supports up to 680 bulbs, xLights can support millions of bulbs!
You can build your controller to support more lights;
They are all integrated into xLights and controlled together.
XLights runs on Windows, Apple OSX, and Linux computers.
Install xLights. . .
If xLights are not up yet, double click
Click the \"xLights\" or \"xlight 64\" shortcut on your desktop.
Do not use the xLights scheduler shortcut.
XLights need to know your lighting controller before designing the lighting animation.
Specifically, where to find it on your network, and how your string of light is connected to the controller.
When you start xLights, you will see three tabs under the color effects toolbar: settings, layout, and sequencer.
Now xLights knows your lighting controller!
Next to the Settings tab in XLights (
Under the colorful effect toolbar)
Is the layout tab.
This is where you indicate the location of the lights in your house or yard.
You can take a picture of your house/yard, upload it here, and then literally draw where the lights are placed.
For example, if you put the lights on the roof of the house, you can draw a line along the roof and tell xLights where they are.
When you add more lights to the display, they are all displayed on the layout tab.
You can wire bars, arches, stars, candy sticks, trees, whatever the shape of the lighting you need to show how you arrange it.
In the middle of the screen, above the large black area, is a black toolbar.
This is where you choose the shape of the light.
Let\'s try a basic shape to see if your lights work.
The steps below assume that you bought 23 \"coro Bethlehem star, but they also apply to other shapes purchased from Boscoyo Studio.
You just got ready to animate the lights in xLights for the first time!
Now, we are ready to animate our stars in countless colors!
The third main tab in XLights is where the animation is created.
XLights is called the animation \"sequence \".
You will see a large black area on a line near the top with \"stars\" on it \".
The box is arranged as a timeline;
You will see the seconds mark every five seconds at the top of the black area.
Animation can be dragged (
XLights call them \"effects \")
Colorful toolbar from top.
To animate the stars, drag the effect from the color toolbar to the row where \"stars\" are in the black area. Let\'s try one!
Now, we created
Star Screen Animation, let\'s see if we can make your real star light up!
So far we have configured xLights on the home network to view your Wifi controller, then we created a virtual star in xLights and learned how to animate it
The final step is to tell xLights to animate your real star with a string of lights.
Now that you have created your first computer animated light controller, this is possible.
When you build more Wifi controllers, they become part of your growing display.
XLights make all your lights work as a full show!
You can create dozens of light decorations using the white \"coro\" shape, bounce and glowing arches with lights, arrange your house with lights, create animated trees and more.
Take a look at this holiday display video made by wireless light controllers and xLights animation software.
You can also visit my websiteitwinkle.
More information on building computerized Christmas lights.
There is an online community that can help you with your problem with computerized solar lights.
If you are on Facebook, join these groups to make new friends and solve problems: there are also some excellent online forums where you can learn more about computer lights: DIY computer control holiday lighting engineer\'s guide if you would like to learn more about xLights, here are the manuals, wiki, instructional videos, and forums.
Normally, your computer controls how your Christmas lights are animated.
You can create animations using the xLights software, and then it will send commands to your lighting controller and strings to animate them.
While it\'s convenient to have a computer to create animations and animate your lights, it\'s not that effective to have your computer turn on all day during Christmas.
If you accidentally turn off your computer, restart it, crash the computer, etc.
Your light show stopped.
24x7 power supply to the computer is not electric.
Some people solve this problem by creating an animation using a home computer, then playing back the animation and using a separate low level control lightpower computer.
In this way, you can continue to use your home computer all day as usual, while low
Power computer runs around the clock and plays your light show exclusively.
Raspberry Pi is perfect for this purpose.
In xLights, you save the animations as playback files and upload them to special programs (Falcon Player)
On the Raspberry Pi that simply plays the file.
Falcon Player software is quite powerful.
With just a slight adjustment, it can not only play the animation created from xLights, but also let the Internet control your lighting performance!
By saving the xLights animation as multiple play files (
For example, one animation per file)
, People who access the web page can click the button to tell which animation file the Falcon player plays.
Animation can make your lights look like candy sticks with red and white lights, for example, while another animation file can make your house shine in a flashing light.
When no one actively \"controls\" your lights, a \"regular\" animation file is played for passing cars.
The advantage of Internet control of your Christmas lights is to take advantage of your existing xLights knowledge (
For creating animations).
If you\'re already playing animations with a Falcon player, you don\'t have to learn a lot of new things there either!
Internet control is mainly to adjust the Falcon players to receive commands from the Internet, which is not difficult!
To learn more about how to control Christmas lights from the Internet, click here!
Your light controller connects to your home wifi network via a wifi router.
Your laptop is also connected to a wifi router;
In this way, the laptop can \"see\" The light controller and animate the light;
Your router acts as a conduit between the optical controller and the laptop.
Using your light controller and your existing wifi router, some people like to take their light controller \"on the way\" to demonstrate their lights.
The easiest way is to carry the light controller, laptop and home wifi router with you.
The ESP modules on the Light controller already know the SSID and password connected to the router, so when you use the router and wifi controller when you are away from home, they automatically see each other.
You don\'t need to connect your router to the Internet when you are away from home.
If it is not convenient to move the router out of the House, please use the second router.
Configure the second router so that its SSID and password match the original router.
In this way, the ESP module on the optical controller will automatically connect to the second router without the need to re-program the SSID and password on the ESP module.
Note that the password is case-sensitive, so if your original router password has both upper and lower case letters, make sure you type the password correctly.
Next, configure the dhcp ip address range on the second router so that it provides an IP address similar to the original router.
For example, if your original router gives an IP address beginning with 192. 168. 1.
X, but your second router is out of the box and gives an IP address starting with 10. 0. 0.
X, then your light controller and laptop will not be able to \"see\" each other through the second router.
Three devices (
Optical Controller, router and laptop)
There must be IP addresses similar to them to see each other.
Here, the first three numbers in the IP address must be the same.
Changing the range of dhcp ip addresses on the second router can be tricky, but it is certainly possible.
Note: the configuration page of your second router usually goes through the default out-of-the-Box IP address (such as 10. 0. 0. 1).
If you change the dhcp ip address range on this router to 192. 168. 1.
For example, the IP address to access the router configuration page will also change (
It will become 192. 168. 1. 1).
So if you change the IP address range on the second router and have no access to its configuration page, try using the new IP address you have assigned. 1” on the end.
Another note: If you configure the second router to match the same settings as the original router (
As mentioned above)
, Don\'t power up two routers within each other\'s antenna range!
They create conflicts and cause your wireless device to lose connection to the network.
Use the optical controller outside the range of the wifi network antenna. The antenna on the ESP module in the optical controller is very small.
Therefore, in order to get a good signal, your optical controller may need to be physically placed near the router.
The \"configuration\" page of the ESP module shows the signal strength sent to the router in the included screenshot.
The lower the percentage, the weaker the signal connection to the router, the more likely your lights will not work properly.
There are a lot of things that can improve the wireless range if you need to keep your light controller away from the router.
Improved built-in
In the ESP antenna, consider replacing the antenna on the ESP module with a larger/better antenna.
This means physical cut/disable built-in
Replace the antenna and Weld.
You can Google \"ESP8266-
01 antenna replacement \"to learn how to do this;
Here is a link to get you started: wifi extender consider wifi extender.
These devices are plugged into wall power outlets and extend the range of existing routers by receiving signals and restartingBroadcast.
For example, if your router is at the south end of the house, your light controller is at the North End
End the front yard and install the wifi extender on the north end of the house.
It will receive a weaker wifi signal from the south end of the house and then replay a strong signal on the north end.
Here is an example of a typical wifi extender: The wireless access point to the router takes into account the Ethernet of the wifi router.
Connect the ethenet cable to the original router, and then connect the cable to another router that is physically closer to the light controller.
The second router should be configured to use a different SSID and password as the second wireless network.
You will also need to re-program ESP on the optical controller to access the second wifi network.
On the second router, configure the dhcp ip address range similar to the original router, but make the fourth number not on both routersoverlapping.
For example, set the DHCP range on the original router to 192. 168. 1. 3 through 192. 168. 1. 110.
Set the DHCP range on the second router to 192. 168. 1. 126 to 192. 168. 1. 239.
The DHCP gateway on the original router should already be 192. 168. 1. 1;
Set the DHCP gateway on the second router to 192. 168. 1. 2.
This allows your original router to retain the IP address 111-
125 equipment for future static allocation (
Like the light controller near the original router)and 240-
254 for optical controllers near the second router).
Note that all of these IP addresses are suggestions/examples;
Your own scene may be different.
Install a second router with an existing cable if you don\'t like the idea of running/burying an Ethernet cable from part of your house/property to another part, consider using a powerline network extender.
Here, connect the Ethernet cable of the original router to the power line sending device, and then plug the device into the regular power outlet.
In another area of your property, connect the powerline receiving device to a power outlet.
Your AC power cord acts as a \"cable\" to connect two Powerline devices, just like a virtual Ethernet cable.
The receiving device is also a wifi router, so configure it as a second router using the instructions above.
Here\'s an example of a Powerline Network Extender: two power outlets may need to be on the same circuit, but I\'m not sure about that.
If you are having trouble getting the ESP wifi light controller to work for the first time, please read this trouble shooting guide for help!
You can also contact me at tominohio @ gmail.
I will help you as much as I can.
The possible reason why I can\'t flash the firmware to the light controller: When I power on the controller, the light is not turned on for all possible reasons: Self Check works (
Some bulbs turn white when powered on
Get up and go out as expected)
, But I can\'t animate them with xLights.
Possible reason: the lights are animated manually but not within the xLightsPossible reason range: I used multiple strings (
I used four strings of 100 bulbs).
How do I set it up?
The light controller supports only one string of lights.
However, you can have up to 680 bulbs in this string.
You need to connect each string end-to-end to form a long string.
Please note that you need to inject new power and ground between every 100 lights (
Like a vampire faucet).
The data line between each 100 lights does not need to be modified.
This is for 12V lights.
If you are using a 5v light, you need to inject new energy and ground every 50 bulbs.
Can I connect the light together end-to-end?
For 12v lights, you can connect two series of 50 lights together, end-to-end connection, forming a series of 100 lights.
Make sure to update the web-based configuration page on the light controller to reflect the longer string (
Please see step 11 in this manual).
Also, the xLights settings tab for the number of channels to be updated is displayed (
For example, 36 bulbs will be 108 channels)
And the number of nodes in the model in the xLights Layout tab.
The Wifi light controller supports up to 680 bulbs. This can be 13.
6 string of 50 bulbs or 6.
8 strings 100 (
You can cut the last string short and make 680 bulbs in total).
Can strings be shorter than 50 bulbs?
You can cut the rope a little short if you want.
For example, if you only need a bunch of 36 bulbs, cut off 14 bulbs at the end of the rope (
\"Output\" side).
Be sure to update the channel to display in the xLights settings tab (
36 bulbs will be 108 channels)
And the number of nodes in the model in the xLights Layout tab.
My lights are animated, but there are a lot of flashing and/or incorrect colors.
Possible Reason: my lights have been animated for a while and then everything freezes.
The lights on the lamp controller are also turned off.
Possible reason: when I start xLights, I get a message about the fact that other processes are using lights.
Possible Reason: I may have damaged the circuit board by reversing the power supply and ground wire;
How do I troubleshoot components on the board?
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